March 10, 2016 at 2:29 am #49259
I’ve tried to help my dad to paint his fender but something happened that never happened to me before and I don’t know what’s causing it.
Sanded/scuffed a painted fender.
Wet sanded the primer.
Let it dry.
Lay down the first “misted” light coat of base
Laid more wet coat of paint —- resulted in some strange spots appearing all over the place.
Laid another wet coat — did not cover the spots, paint seems to keep “avoiding” those spots and does not fill it, no matter how “wet” it is.
Any help or advice? Anyone had seen anything like this before?
Used Finish1 primer and cheap paint by Finish1. (nothing fancy).
Used this paint brand before and never seen this problem before.March 12, 2016 at 1:03 am #49260
Did you wipe the panel with wax & grease remover prior to painting? Looks like fisheyes to me. Trick is when you start to see them in the base go extremely light on the base, almost to the point of dry. You don’t want the paint to be wet. At this point it would be a sand a repaint.March 12, 2016 at 6:14 am #49261
I have to agree with Kevin, looks like a bad fisheye problem. Fisheyes can come from so many sources that at times it can be hard to track them down. Oil coming through the air hose from your compressor, someone outside in the driveway spraying WD40, Armoral on their car tires,… or even just someone waxing their car. They take their buffing rag and give it a shake, and all those little silcone particles are airborne. You have the car all prepped and ready to paint, and when you drive into the booth you can pick up armoral off the steering wheel or door pads which can transfer to the surface when you tack it off. Even starting a diesel engine in the shop can contaminate the work if the exhaust settles on it.
Prevention is the way to go. When you have your job ready to spray,… dust blown off and the air allowed to settle,…rewash the whole surface with a good silicone and wax remover (I like RM’s 990 Prime Wipe) making sure that you use a damp cloth, and immediately wipe dry with a clean dry cloth. Never allow the wax remover to dry on the surface. This will work well over two stage primers,… just be careful over laquer primers (most spray bomb primers). If the silcone remover that you’re using is a strong one,… there is always the possiblity of it melting and smoothing out your 500 or finer grit sanding, this smoothing of the surface will mean that your base coat doesn’t have any tooth to hang on to anymore, and delamination could be a problem. Stick to a quality primer and you’ll have no problems.
Only add a fisheye eliminator to your paint as a ‘LAST’ resort. Basically what this does is add silcone to your paint, which will release the tension and allow the fisheye to close over,… but any overspray from this paint job will contaminate any other jobs that it lands on, then you end up adding it to the next job, and the next, etc.
If fisheyes show up after your first coat, try Kevins method,… allow it about 10 or 15 minutes to flash off,… then turn your air pressure up, and your material knob in,… and dry dust a little base coat over the fisheyed area. You don’t want this coat to flow,… you want it to seal. Dust on a couple of coats, tacking between coats, then reset your gun to normal and start respraying normally again. Nine times out of ten, this will solve your problem with no additives. Don’t spray your clear coat if you still have a problem with your base coat.April 14, 2016 at 10:06 pm #49272
Blair and Kevin…
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
Wow, what a great write up Blair!
Thank you sir! – I’ve learned a lot!
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