February 5, 2015 at 4:41 am #48217
Anyone have any tips on dealing with these junk bumpers? I know the correct way is to strip the primer off them and start over but can’t get paid for that. The way I do them now is to scuff them with a scuff pad and paste, clean them with waterbased cleaner then two really light coats of sealer with extended flash times then start basing. First coat goes on real light with extended flash times and it drags on and on. What happens is that if you rush it at all or get a little heavy on the base, then the factory primer will lift and at that point your pretty much screwed gotta strip the bumper. I am spraying sikkens abp.
ChuckFebruary 5, 2015 at 6:31 am #48218
I was wondering the same thing. How others are dealing with them. We scuff them and light coat of sealer, base and clear.most of the time theres not much problem. If they do happen to bust, try some 2000 to smooth it up few more light coats of base. Worst case clear it then da and repaint. They should be stripped but whos gonna pay for that? . By the time you do that may as well get oe. buy cheap, get cheap!February 5, 2015 at 11:30 am #48219
I usually wash them first with hot soapy water to get any the extra mold release off of them. Then usually scuff them P600 wet or the usual scuff n’ paste. After that water base cleaner followed by a anti-static cleaner. Sometimes the alcohol from the anti-static cleaner can strip any left over shipping primer that the bumper has on it. Sealer can be a two component or single. Then base until its fully covered followed by a mist coat, and then clear.February 6, 2015 at 7:25 am #48220
I use a used red scotch brit than RM 909 cleaner and use RM 870 plastic adhesion sealer and paint with no issuesAttachments:February 6, 2015 at 11:55 pm #48221
I scuff mine with a gray scotchbrite. Then clean with soapy water or you can use keystones water base cleaner. Then I use Transtar 1033 Mul-Tie Adhesion Promoter 2 light coats. Then I apply one light coat of base. Let it flash about 10 minutes. Then do my other coats. Seems to be the only method that consistently works for me. I like using the adhesion promoter as my sealer because it gives more adhesion in my opinion. I do basically the same method for raw plastic bumpers as well. I have had cars I did come back re wrecked 3 years later and the paint on the bumper will be on there good.
If you use solvent based cleaner or spray your first coat of base on too heavy or too reduced seems like you will have a problem every time.February 7, 2015 at 2:50 am #48222
I also agree on taking off the primer for aftermarket bumpers,oem I leave on.So since its a pain to take off the primer I give it a light scuff with the 3m thin scothbite pads (red or gray depending on the bumper) then a light coat of sikkens cbp 250 sealer mixed with extra slow activator as it is less likely to wrinkle,base then clear.Bare plastic gets prepped the same,sikkens po,sealer base clear.I hate to do it but alot of times on the directions of AM bumpers they suggest to base right on top of the primer if you prep it like they want it.It seems no matter what you do you always get the odd peeler.February 7, 2015 at 4:25 am #48224
[quote=”Jayson M” post=36686]I also agree on taking off the primer for aftermarket bumpers,oem I leave on.So since its a pain to take off the primer I give it a light scuff with the 3m thin scothbite pads (red or gray depending on the bumper) then a light coat of sikkens cbp 250 sealer mixed with extra slow activator as it is less likely to wrinkle,base then clear.Bare plastic gets prepped the same,sikkens po,sealer base clear.I hate to do it but alot of times on the directions of AM bumpers they suggest to base right on top of the primer if you prep it like they want it.It seems no matter what you do you always get the odd peeler.[/quote]I will try that with the extra slow activator and see where that gets me. Any thoughts on using bulldog as a barrier coat before sealing? I talked to a rep from keystone about our issues and asked him what the chances of getting raw plastic bumpers in and he told me that they have no control over how they are shipped to them. They at least agreed to pay us to repaint them when their primer busts loose and the customer brings it back in. But that still makes us look bad to the customer.
ChuckFebruary 7, 2015 at 6:20 am #48225
Trust me try RM 870 I use it on primed and raw plastic bumpers this stuff is like bullet proofFebruary 7, 2015 at 6:30 am #48226
Why would you need adhesion promoter on a primed surface? Raw plastic I get it, just askingFebruary 7, 2015 at 6:46 am #48227
I like to put RM product on to rm product and it’s something I was taught and I always stuck with it and never had problems with bumpers peeling againFebruary 7, 2015 at 7:01 am #48228
Good to know it works that way with Rm.I have seen other systems where adpro can cause the aftermarket primer to lift,thats why I asked.February 7, 2015 at 7:03 am #48229
No it’s all goodFebruary 9, 2015 at 8:12 pm #48237February 10, 2015 at 5:50 am #48240
I could be wrong, but I can’t see RM recommending to put adhesion promoter on to primer. Usually adhesion promoter is for raw plastic only. But I have never really used RM so I probabaly shouldn’t say. Glad it works for you!February 10, 2015 at 9:36 am #48242
Actually Jim the rep does recommend 870 on all plastic parts primed or raw plastic
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.