Hans started the topic Plain silver metalflake in gelcoat colorshifting?!? in the forum Paint and Refinish 1 week, 3 days ago
I need to reproduce the paintjob of an old Ducati, which looked pretty basic at first glance. Just plain silver metalflake .008″ full coverage.
Untill i saw the gastank in the sun. It looked like they mixed a (very) small amount of holographic/color shifting flake through the plain metalflake.
I took a magnifying glass to determine what kind of…[Read more]
[quote=”Mal” post=36828]Just a quick update in the space of one year went through 4 leads the fourth being an upgraded design and seamed to last better than the rest anyway at 3 months a time! Then speed buttons started to act up with only faster working so it has been sent back and replaced with a Mirka sander.
Turns out all the 3m sanders sold…[Read more]
[quote=”jim” post=37446]Who even makes one to buy? I know there is some prototypes out there, but are any of them available?[/quote]
PPG D8186 on Youtube: http://youtu.be/N3wfyUR4Zas
Here in Europe i can’t find any dealer who has it in stock, don’t know how it is in America.
After searching for days on the internet, the only brand i can…[Read more]
Which inlet pressure do you guys use mostly with the 100b rp?
Used it yesterday for the first time with a sealer and 22psi was more than enough. Any higher is only more waste/overspray.
Awesome gun by the way. Only wished it was chrome plated instead of the gray anodize finish. Looks a little cheap.
[quote=”Ben” post=32411]I did wind up buying the RP version of the SATA. I got a 1.6 tip which seems to work well with our primer (although the Sherwin Williams rep suggested possibly going to a 1.4). It’s a very nice gun and sprays great. I am very happy.
Thanks for the recommendations everyone[/quote]
I’m also interested in buying the 100b…[Read more]
[quote=”Jayson M” post=35161]a positive pressure booth will push air/dirt/dust out not suck it in..[/quote]
I was describing a method for people who have dust problems in their paintjobs and don’t know where that problem is coming from. You can use a halogen lamp in a dark booth to trace the dustsource. For example a leak at your inlet filters…[Read more]
[quote=”Jayson M” post=35157]I could see that working in a negative pressure booth but not in a positive pressure booth :kofee[/quote]
You mean my tip with the halogen beam? Negative or positive pressure booth doesn’t matter, floating dust is floating dust.
With a halogen beam in your hand you can see where it’s coming from.
A tip for anyone who has dust/dirt problems and don’t know where it’s coming from: turn out the lights in the booth, airflow on as if you’re painting, and look with a bright halogen lamp or something similar in your hand around you. You can easily spot even the smallest dust particles floating in the air and see where they are coming from.
[quote=”sage” post=35093]How do you go about painting new parts with no sealer in your system? Do you actually prime and sand OEM parts?
I do mainly restauration and painting vintage motorcycle parts, i have never painted new parts.
Well i did once a new motorcycle fender and sprayed it wet-in-wet with the ACME 2K primer i…[Read more]
I use ACME Finish1 FP450 2K Primer, in the data sheet is nothing mentioned about using it as a non sanding primer. Just the standard 4:1:0.5 mixation (4 parts primer, 1 part hardener, 0.5 part reducer) for use as a sanding primer.
What could go wrong if i simply add more than the “0.5” amount of reducer to make it a non sanding primer?
ACME Finish 1 (made by Sherwin Williams). $15 per sprayable quart. No reducer needed.
I use this for many years and have never met any problem.
Here in Europe we have the 2:1 version (2 parts clear, 1 part hardener), while in the US it’s 4:1.
(Odd isn’t it?)
[quote=”jim c” post=35010]well i guess you could if you wanted to but why really?
Saving money (not having to use basecoat).
[quote]flakes are more coarse than silver so they will not cover anywhere near as good.[/quote]
Okay. I was expecting (mini)flakes to cover really well because of their size, and
the gray primer supports…[Read more]
Maybe the fiberglass wasn’t fully cured, and now trapped gasses are expanding due to (sun)heat causing blisters?
You say it’s also the case on the steel hood. Did you use fiberglass fillers there?
I just spoke someone who says that with his specific method, burying 0.004 isn’t necesary.
What he does isn’t spraying the flakes in a (clearcoat)carrier, but after some initial layers of basecoat he over-reduces the basecoat 25% and then add 1 gram flake to each 10 grams of base. Spray two coats with this mixture and then hop, candy.
[quote=”Andy T” post=33468]As you’ve guessed, getting it even is likely to be impossible.
I’ve done it on small parts like door handles, trims, window frames etc that require a satin finish. Rather than messing around to match the gloss level with paint I’ve simply sprayed them matt then gradually polished them up to the right kind of…[Read more]
Yes, it will show. It would have to be repainted (with some basecoat over the burn through).[/quote]
I didn’t mean a complete burnthrough (damaging the basecoat), just a burn through the upper flowcoat to the earlier painted and cured layers of clearcoat. Will that show too?
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