Point makes sense Ryan, I just often wonder how much marketing hype is involved with these products. Some clear is $100 a set-up, others around $400 are they really 4 times better in quality? How much of it is marketing, does it really cost that much to make a clear? I'd love to see a chemical analysis between the top name brand clears vs. the top aftermarkets. I know how things are marked up in industry, wonder if it's a similar scenario with clear, as we are buying a blind item unless we are chemist with access to an expensive lab...how can we really say one clear is "better" then another unless we are a chemist?
What I said in my first post kinda answers this. Raw material vs raw material the cost isn't going to be as drastic. you lose the warranty, reps, and any support if things went south.
Cost per gallon is a poor comparison. You have to look at cost per sprayable oz and how far it goes.
If you like SPI just use it. What your asking would need to be determined by a third party chemist. Read More...
I have used one of their clears and it was pretty good for the money, but definately not close to the best clear I have used.
What some people fail to realize when comparing prices, most refinish clears are priced for what they do. If you want a clear to be slow, but cure under heat and be buffable within the hour, it is going to cost you. If you want a lifetime warranty with it, that will cost you also. if you want a paint company to test said product under a variety of conditions and within a structured system, it will cost you.
For painting a few cars here and their SPI has a real niche, but for most large collision shops it doesn't fit. Thats what big paint companies want, big shops using alot of paint. Read More...
This may be the best option for Akzo, PPG and BASF, I'm sure Valspar will do a good job of killing the Dupont brand and it would benefit all! Read More...
It's not so much their primer as it is the substrate exposed from your featheredge. The manufactuers started using a wet on wet process much like we use and as a result it is more sensitive. Easiest way to combat this I have found is to put a light coat on first and let it flash good. Dont dry spray the piss out of it, and you should not achieve opacity with it but just a nice light coat. Once flashed make your first wet coat just a medium one, then proceed as normal.
It would also help if you could get an IR lamp on it for a few minutes before priming, but that isn't a very good option for most people. Read More...
i dont see a difference between OEM 2 stage and 3 stage. Sikkens using 2 stage paint to match 3 stage proves my point. 3 stages are more trouble than their worth.
I completely disagree, there is a big difference in appearance. To be honest I always used the 3 stage formula as it matched better and not much more work. You can make the 2 stage fly but it does not look the same.
71 days ago
