paint's paint .. but i really like the job you did on the woodwork
So true - rebuilding the parts from a pile of rotted wood and veneering them was a real education. The rest was just a few coats of clear - flatten once it shrunk into the grain and re-clear. So many debates about how to do it right...I just did it the way that made sense to me. Read More...
Here's what I've been working on for the past little while. I did all the woodwork and then sprayed the clear. I had to get this job out of the way to make room for the winter car project. Turned out really well - but it sure was tricky to buff out!
At the risk of being a buzz-kill, it's easy to do it cheap - what Bobwires is saying is that it isn't easy to do a quality job cheap. I've painted a few cars in my garage and continue to do so - it's not easy and you'll polish every job. I have drapes that I hang and a 9000 cfm fan to handle the fog. I use furnace filters and toss them out after each job. I need more light and have recently completed a complete air cooler to ensure dry air.
I've got a natural gas garage heater mounted to the ceiling and it is outside of the drapes. I've not had an issue (no explosions so far). In the winter (I'm in Canada) - I turn the heat way up and then kill the furnace while I paint. As soon as I'm done and the booth is clear I turn the heat back on. It's not perfect, but it works. Read more...
So I get home from vacation and find my car has had a rough time with the local birds. They'd crapped all over the car and when I washed it off, the acids have etched the clear. It's Finish One clear and I'm not all that happy with the durability of the product in general. I'm guessing that I'm going to have to wet sand and re-polish the paint at some point. I probably won't worry about it right now as I've got way too much on my plate. Has anyone tried sealants? Other thoughts/tips/tricks we have a lot of birds and I'm going to go get a fake Owl soon. I hate birds.
Sikkens rally black or utech 200 urethane mixed with 100% flatening agent,2 laps around the car and you are done vs 2-3 coats of base plus 2 coats of flat clear...work smart not hard
I use UTech 2000 for painting the scientific instruments that I make...its awesome. I shoot 2 coats of epoxy (black) then the UTech 2000 as Jayson has described. It's NIGHT - which is what I need. Durable too. Read more...
Paying attention to this one...I have to polish nibs out of everything I paint unless it's something that I don't care about and it turns out fine . What polishing system is the "best"? I'm using Norton Liquid Ice right now and find that it has some oils or something in it that makes me think it's time to move on to the next stage of polishing only to find out later that I've got to do it again as the gloss washed off . I'm using 3M (purple bottle) for final finishing on dark colours. Read more...
your guage is a guide only and even if it is out [but consistantly out] it is still only a guide ,think of it this way,you can have a reading in PSI PSIG BAR or MCG ie My Chinese Guage ,the guage doesnt change the physical pressure coming through only the format it reads it in so if your guage reads 30 whilst mine reads 28 whether yours is the acurate one or mine is then it matters not a jot as long as we both know where our paint/gun works best ,it has more to do with the ability to set up a gun correctly than working off predetermined pressures especialy as spraying conditions can vary from hour to hour therefore corrections have to be made from hour to hour day to day week to week and season to season along with corrections for materials etc etc etc ,this is where experiance trumps recomendations ,Sata recomend 2.5 BAR/36PSI triggered ,i have never used one that high and so it follows [acording to Sata] everyone here so far is wrong with recomedations around the 2.1 BAR figure
the only way you can be certain of your guage readings is to have it calibrated against a known acurate guage ,but all said and done that doesnt mean your gun will atomise any better or worse based soley on how acurate or not your guage may be
if the speedo on my car is out by + 20% it doesnt mean i am going any faster !
Paul
Thanks Paul - I get the point, there is no gaurantee that the gauge is properly calibrated. Without the required experience (which I'm getting very slowly) it's hard to get a real grip on making this "easy". I think I'm getting pretty lucky as I've only had one corn cob job (that red with the Iwata) and the UTec polished so well that my buddy was looking at his car saying we (meaning me) should paint the entire car. It's a Volvo 740...take it to the junk yard and get something less ugly was my answer . He's got another car he has to work on - but that's how well it worked . I've got another fluid tip coming for the Iwata as it's still a great gun and I don't know how I would do small stuff with the SATA. That would take a lot more skill than I have.
Given that much of this stuff seems to be a rythm thing with the right setup I need to keep very detailed notes on what I've done because I don't pull the trigger often enough. Your confidence can fade really fast when things change like paint systems, air flow, gun selection and others that I've swapped around lately. It's time to settle in on a single setup and stop changing the tools to account for my inexperience. I'm pretty well setup right now - if I get this gauge thing fixed then I am the only variable left. I like it better that way! Read more...
109 days ago
.. but i really like the job you did on the woodwork 
so far). In the winter (I'm in Canada) - I turn the heat way up and then kill the furnace while I paint. As soon as I'm done and the booth is clear I turn the heat back on. It's not perfect, but it works.
Paying attention to this one...I have to polish nibs out of everything I paint unless it's something that I don't care about and it turns out fine 
. I'm using 3M (purple bottle) for final finishing on dark colours.
(that red with the Iwata) and the UTec polished so well that my buddy was looking at his car saying we (meaning me) should paint the entire car. It's a Volvo 740...take it to the junk yard and get something less ugly was my answer 
. He's got another car he has to work on - but that's how well it worked 
. I've got another fluid tip coming for the Iwata as it's still a great gun and I don't know how I would do small stuff with the SATA. That would take a lot more skill than I have.
