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whos using rm products?

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This topic contains 17 replies, has 7 voices, and was last updated by  zach 2 years, 6 months ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 18 total)
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  • #48393

    travis
    Participant

    Ive been back in the paint shop for a few months now and getting back into the swing. Im using onyx hd and dc 5335. I bought me a teckna prolite currently using 1.4 with the hvlp air cap. I like this better than the te20 so far. Seems to go on smoother but I havent done a high metallic color yet. My jobber let me demo a SATA 4000 rp with a 1.3. Im curious what setups other rm users have. I think I can get past the tekna, but I can’t wrap my head around this clear. Or is it the gun? I cannot get it to lay down (not glass off the gun) just not so much peel. When it does lay out there is a run or sag somewhere, when theres no run then I have lots of peel. I have sprayed from 3 to 6 inches, 27 to 32 psi. I have turned the fluid in up to 1.5 turns. What am I doing wrong? I am thinking that I need a 1.2 to atomize better. Any thoughts, advice? Also any input on the hb002-004 and hb 020 and 040 would be helpful. The other painter is still learning the system as well. I was using diamont and 5300/5600 some years ago and had not much trouble at all.thanks in advance

    #48394

    Chris
    Participant

    Hello I’m using rm product I’m using the solvent with dc5900 clear

    #48395

    Jayson Munro
    Participant

    I’m not a basf user but maybe you are using to fast of a hardener or reducer?If you can slow it down a bit maybe it will go on smoother,it sounds like you really have to wet it up which means your getting too much film build =peel or runs.Just a thought.Have you tried the prolite with a te20 1.3 for your clear?

    #48397

    Anonymous

    It’s been a few years since I’ve used the high VOC clears, you will definitely get a nicer look if you’re using the UR reducers vs the VR. With Onyx you want a big tip and larger droplets, 1.5 is ideal. The HB004 and 040 will lay your metallics down better, but they are slower so it will take longer to dry. The Sata 4000 RP is one of the top choices for clearcoat, I would think a 1.3 should be fine without dialing in the material, if it goes on too thin it can pinch up after drying also. I don’t have any experience with that particular clearcoat (that I recall), I use to use DC5300 and loved it several years back. That pressure setting is a bit too high, for the tekna you want 26. I don’t have a ton of experience with the 4000 RP but am told it operates best between 22-26 psi.

    #48405

    travis
    Participant

    Jayson- I am using UR 60 (medium) reducer and DH 46 (medium) hardener at 72′ f. Will give the tekna a shot.
    Jimmo- 1.5 just seems so big for basecoat. I didn’t like the te 20 aircap with base because of the larger droplets. I guess thats the way water is supposed to be sprayed? Maybe i need to spray it on wetter? Im using about 19 psi and drop to 17 for effect coat with the tekna. All looks well when dry. The rp is throwing out large drops as well (my reason for thinking I need a 1.2 and why i turned the fluid in) even at 32psi. I will try lowering the pressure to see what that does. We have an old rp 2000 with a 1.2 I will give that a go also.
    Cdykstra- how is the solvent doing for you? We are using the underhood formulas for cut-in and are working great so far. Been wanting to try the solvent on exterior but we dont know much about it. How are the color matches? I posted a while back that our color matches were hit and miss, I didn’t realize that one of the other painter was putting the tints on the machine without shaking them at all! Turned it on for 15 mins in the morning and that was it for the day!

    #48409

    Jayson Munro
    Participant

    Do you have the high flow fittings for you gun and hoses?Just a thought….

    #48410

    Chris
    Participant

    I’m using solvent 100% and I love it the color matches are pretty good over all the only issue is the charcoal colors but if I have blend panels I get away with it

    #48412

    travis
    Participant

    Yes high flow fittings and couplers. I don’t think the hoses are “high flow”. Just a standard hose. Never had issues with them before though. Could it be possible that the devilbiss regulator is restricting airflow?

    #48428

    W
    Participant

    I have used a 1.3 7E7 tekna with DC5335 with excellent results. I lke the DH47 hardner,Ur60 and spray about 22 psi about 6inches away.. Not the fastest but it lays out nice.

    #48430

    john
    Participant

    The TE10 air cap will give you smaller droplets. Also I use the Supernova with a 1.3 fluid tip for DC5335 and have no problems.

    #48432

    trevor
    Participant

    Hello, guys! I need your help here. I had to respray the whole car because of the paint damage some time ago… Now I am thinking to apply some paint protection to it. Have you tried some? My friend recommended me the one from [url=http://www.colourshield.com]http://www.colourshield.com[/url] website. I need some suggestions, guys! He says, it works really nice, what do you think?

    #48481

    travis
    Participant

    Well I got around to spray one today. My jobber needed his rp4000 back so I used the rp2000 1.2. No runs or sags! I think lol. Its a little slower than I remember… its been 8 years. What do ya think

    Attachments:
    #48482

    Chris
    Participant

    Nice job bob

    #48484

    travis
    Participant

    Jimmo- are you using onyx? about the hydromix and hydrobase. Can you cocktail them? Our rep. Said that one dries top to bottom and the other bottom to top. Didn’t think to ask which one.

    #48625

    zach
    Participant

    The best cocktail I’ve tried is the hydro base 002 with the hydromix 040, dries up real nice without the gummy feel. Also stays open long enough to let metallics orient effortlessly.

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