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Spies hecker hi tec help

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This topic contains 18 replies, has 5 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Donnie Martin Donnie Martin 1 year, 12 months ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 19 total)
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  • #48753
    Profile photo of Terrence
    Terrence
    Participant

    Hi first post so bare with me.
    Been painting for 10+ years have been using sikkens water for the last 2 years now at a new shop using spies hecker hi tec water. I could really use some tips from anyone using this system expecially blending and laying down Metallics they just don’t seem to go down as nice as sikkens or blend as good. Is there any tips or ways or reducing this stuff to make it nicer. When I put it through a strainer it’s so thick it barley goes through it. But I’m worried about thinning it to much with 6050 it might take coverage away. Also I have noticed colours with this system are really flippy. Different angles give really different looks. So far I don’t like this stuff. But I kinda want to. I like the one half coat. It’s like I don’t know what to do with this stuff. Sikkens was like solvent you could do what you wanted with it. I just can’t get my head around this stuff. Any help much appreciated.

    #48776
    Profile photo of gunner
    gunner
    Participant

    It’s great paint, I hope you make it through the learning stage. You are right it’s nothing like Sikkens. I rarely reduce more than the recommendation of 10% on solids and 20% on pearl and metallics. Spray everything wet, stay in tight on your first coat to achieve 80% to 90% coverage than back up far with heavy overlap for your final drop coat. Always use the wet bed for blending. Also I prefer a 10 to 15 minute bake instead of using blowers. Hard to cover everything but if you have any questions I will try to help. I spray Standox Standoble, which is the same
    product
    The paint is much thicker than you are used to, that is the nature of the product. It applies best with a 1.2 to 1.3 fluid tip. Do not dry beetween coats. It can be hard to aply over a dry coat when first learning. Good luck!

    #48789
    Profile photo of Terrence
    Terrence
    Participant

    Thanks for the reply.
    Yeh I definitely figured that one. it is a pain to recoat once it has dried. So what is the best approach for this? What do you recommend?
    Also when you do your drop coat do you go back over your blend when you do a drop?
    Some of my blends have been ok? But some are like what the? Especially when I take it outside in the sun. It looks really good in the booth but you take it outside and it doesn’t look good. Especially when you get on an angle? Also do you put your wet bed over the whole blend panel?
    Really appreciate your help. Thanks

    #48791
    Profile photo of Terrence
    Terrence
    Participant

    Also been told not to trigger off when painting this stuff which can be hard to get used to. Some colours like silvers you can get chunks of colour come out. Is there a way to get rid of this? it Has happened to me a couple of times even when I don’t trigger off. Never had this issue with sikkens.

    #48792
    Profile photo of gunner
    gunner
    Participant

    Yes Cary your wet bed right to the end of the panel. But try not to get it as heavy near the end of the panel to avoid mill thickness and color shifting. When doing a job you really have to think out a game plan because you always want to be spraying wet and don’t want it drying up on you. If your blends are visible in the sun on a angle, you need to start mixing your color with wet bed 50% 50%. Or I like 40% color 60% wetbed. For a tie in. I usually save my blends for last.

    #48793
    Profile photo of gunner
    gunner
    Participant

    I quit triggering off a long time ago. Are the chunks visible when dry?

    #48794
    Profile photo of gunner
    gunner
    Participant

    Make sure you watch all the Spies Hytec or Standox Standoblue YouTube videos. They can be helpfull

    #48796
    Profile photo of Terrence
    Terrence
    Participant

    Ok cool. Yeh chunks are visible when I do a silver. We’re not using pps so whether that makes a difference.
    You say you do your blends last? They say to do them first?
    Yeh I have watched a couple of videos on it pretty helpful. The thing is I keep reading or watching different ways on this stuff. Driving me insane. Lol
    When you mix 50/50 wet bed and coulor is that only for your blend? Or do you use it like that for the entire job? Thanks heaps for your help.

    #48797
    Profile photo of gunner
    gunner
    Participant

    The 50 50 is only for tying in your blend. Here is how I would do a fender hood fender door

    Spray one side of hood one coat – spray other side one coat – go back and drop coat ( heavy overlap ) both sides – wet bed fender – then use your 50 50 slurry to blend fender – spray one coat on other fender slightly blending the door – spray wet bed on door – then drop coat your fender while blending the door- finally use your 50 50 slurry to tie in and fix up the blend on your door.

    I still blend with the full strength paint. The 50 50 slurry is just to tie it all together nice and gradual.

    #48798
    Profile photo of Terrence
    Terrence
    Participant

    I really appreciate this.
    And as you do all that you have to keep it fully wet every where? Like I mean when you have done the hood then you put the wet bed down do you go straight the the edge of color? Even over it?
    And when you say tie in with 50/50 how wet are we talking how far back is it just a light spray over? Thanks mate.

    #48799
    Profile photo of gunner
    gunner
    Participant

    Doesn’t hurt to blend the wet bed into the color. When using the 50 50 slury I like to pull way back and heavy overlap. It’s fairly weak so it takes a bit. But this is only to smooth the transition of the blend. The majority of the blend can be done with full strength.

    I’m not sure why they teach to do the blend first I prefer to do it last.

    #48812
    Profile photo of Terrence
    Terrence
    Participant

    Ok so I think I got the blending sorted.
    I painted a brand new Honda today alabaster silver.
    The whole rear end in and out. But I did run into problems along the way. Chunks of color again. Right in the middle on a brand new quarter. Fixed that. Next problem first coat didn’t cover very well on the bumper and top of boot lid. Turned the booth lights of put sun gun on it and it showed up.
    So had to mix more colour to recoat it. Which seemed ok. But when I cleared it it looks really blotchy now. So does the bumper. So what’s the trick to re coating this paint.
    I’m starting to get so sick of this stuff. It’s starting to drive me insane.
    And the amount of paint you use to paint a job nearly 2 litres of paint for this job. Sikkens would of been under a litre. We have a solvent system at work still set up might go back to that. Haha.

    #48813
    Profile photo of nick veitch
    nick veitch
    Participant

    [quote=”Casster” post=37218]Ok cool. Yeh chunks are visible when I do a silver. We’re not using pps so whether that makes a difference.
    You say you do your blends last? They say to do them first?
    Yeh I have watched a couple of videos on it pretty helpful. The thing is I keep reading or watching different ways on this stuff. Driving me insane. Lol
    When you mix 50/50 wet bed and coulor is that only for your blend? Or do you use it like that for the entire job? Thanks heaps for your help.[/quote]

    On the chunks PPS will eliminate this, all waterborne paint’s suffer from this type of behaviour.

    if you insist on not using pps, what is the micron size on the strainers you are using.

    #48815
    Profile photo of Jerry Richardson
    Jerry Richardson
    Participant

    Caster, I have been spraying Spies Hi-Tec for about 4 years now. I switched from Glasurit water before that. I love hi-tec. If you still have questions I would be willing to help in anyway I can. I have figured out a lot of important things that you will need to know. Application techniques, simple repair when you need it, and color match….
    What country are you in. I am in Oregon on the west coast of the U.S. Here is my e-mail to start contact. Jerry@crash1-4.com
    I can teach you how to make it work.

    #48816
    Profile photo of Jerry Richardson
    Jerry Richardson
    Participant

    Some silvers can be a challenge. It took me some trial and error but hear is one solution. Put your first coat down with 3080 base coat hardner and try to get your metallic even like normal. Let that flash. Take some more base without the 3080 hardner. Reduce it with your choice of fast or slow. Now add 30%-50% 1050 blender into the mix. Now just apply this mix as if you were spraying solvent. Even your metallic out with medium light coats. This step will help with coverage also, some silvers are see through. Don’t pound it on, just light coats. The 1050 will affect the metallic if you get too heavy. It might look rough and textured but get your metallic even and just leave it alone. It’s really easy. Then flash it and it will lay down super smooth. When it’s dry, clear it. It’s very easy once you do it a couple of times. This process is the exact same way you can use Hi-Tec to do a complete. If you contact me I can help you a lot in a short period of time.

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