Loading...

aftermarket bumpers

Welcome Forums Main Forum Paint and Refinish aftermarket bumpers

This topic contains 21 replies, has 9 voices, and was last updated by Profile photo of Chris Chris 2 years, 4 months ago.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 22 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #48217
    Profile photo of Charles Smith
    Charles Smith
    Participant

    Anyone have any tips on dealing with these junk bumpers? I know the correct way is to strip the primer off them and start over but can’t get paid for that. The way I do them now is to scuff them with a scuff pad and paste, clean them with waterbased cleaner then two really light coats of sealer with extended flash times then start basing. First coat goes on real light with extended flash times and it drags on and on. What happens is that if you rush it at all or get a little heavy on the base, then the factory primer will lift and at that point your pretty much screwed gotta strip the bumper. I am spraying sikkens abp.

    Thanks
    Chuck

    #48218
    Profile photo of travis
    travis
    Participant

    I was wondering the same thing. How others are dealing with them. We scuff them and light coat of sealer, base and clear.most of the time theres not much problem. If they do happen to bust, try some 2000 to smooth it up few more light coats of base. Worst case clear it then da and repaint. They should be stripped but whos gonna pay for that? . By the time you do that may as well get oe. buy cheap, get cheap!

    #48219
    Profile photo of Andrew
    Andrew
    Participant

    I usually wash them first with hot soapy water to get any the extra mold release off of them. Then usually scuff them P600 wet or the usual scuff n’ paste. After that water base cleaner followed by a anti-static cleaner. Sometimes the alcohol from the anti-static cleaner can strip any left over shipping primer that the bumper has on it. Sealer can be a two component or single. Then base until its fully covered followed by a mist coat, and then clear.

    #48220
    Profile photo of Chris
    Chris
    Participant

    I use a used red scotch brit than RM 909 cleaner and use RM 870 plastic adhesion sealer and paint with no issues

    Attachments:
    #48221
    Profile photo of Matt Mooney
    Matt Mooney
    Participant

    I scuff mine with a gray scotchbrite. Then clean with soapy water or you can use keystones water base cleaner. Then I use Transtar 1033 Mul-Tie Adhesion Promoter 2 light coats. Then I apply one light coat of base. Let it flash about 10 minutes. Then do my other coats. Seems to be the only method that consistently works for me. I like using the adhesion promoter as my sealer because it gives more adhesion in my opinion. I do basically the same method for raw plastic bumpers as well. I have had cars I did come back re wrecked 3 years later and the paint on the bumper will be on there good.

    If you use solvent based cleaner or spray your first coat of base on too heavy or too reduced seems like you will have a problem every time.

    #48222
    Profile photo of Jayson Munro
    Jayson Munro
    Participant

    I also agree on taking off the primer for aftermarket bumpers,oem I leave on.So since its a pain to take off the primer I give it a light scuff with the 3m thin scothbite pads (red or gray depending on the bumper) then a light coat of sikkens cbp 250 sealer mixed with extra slow activator as it is less likely to wrinkle,base then clear.Bare plastic gets prepped the same,sikkens po,sealer base clear.I hate to do it but alot of times on the directions of AM bumpers they suggest to base right on top of the primer if you prep it like they want it.It seems no matter what you do you always get the odd peeler.

    #48224
    Profile photo of Charles Smith
    Charles Smith
    Participant

    [quote=”Jayson M” post=36686]I also agree on taking off the primer for aftermarket bumpers,oem I leave on.So since its a pain to take off the primer I give it a light scuff with the 3m thin scothbite pads (red or gray depending on the bumper) then a light coat of sikkens cbp 250 sealer mixed with extra slow activator as it is less likely to wrinkle,base then clear.Bare plastic gets prepped the same,sikkens po,sealer base clear.I hate to do it but alot of times on the directions of AM bumpers they suggest to base right on top of the primer if you prep it like they want it.It seems no matter what you do you always get the odd peeler.[/quote]I will try that with the extra slow activator and see where that gets me. Any thoughts on using bulldog as a barrier coat before sealing? I talked to a rep from keystone about our issues and asked him what the chances of getting raw plastic bumpers in and he told me that they have no control over how they are shipped to them. They at least agreed to pay us to repaint them when their primer busts loose and the customer brings it back in. But that still makes us look bad to the customer.

    Chuck

    #48225
    Profile photo of Chris
    Chris
    Participant

    Trust me try RM 870 I use it on primed and raw plastic bumpers this stuff is like bullet proof

    #48226
    Profile photo of Jayson Munro
    Jayson Munro
    Participant

    Why would you need adhesion promoter on a primed surface? Raw plastic I get it, just asking

    #48227
    Profile photo of Chris
    Chris
    Participant

    I like to put RM product on to rm product and it’s something I was taught and I always stuck with it and never had problems with bumpers peeling again

    #48228
    Profile photo of Jayson Munro
    Jayson Munro
    Participant

    Good to know it works that way with Rm.I have seen other systems where adpro can cause the aftermarket primer to lift,thats why I asked.

    #48229
    Profile photo of Chris
    Chris
    Participant

    No it’s all good

    #48237
    Profile photo of Chris
    Chris
    Participant

    Here jayson

    #48240
    Profile photo of gunner
    gunner
    Participant

    I could be wrong, but I can’t see RM recommending to put adhesion promoter on to primer. Usually adhesion promoter is for raw plastic only. But I have never really used RM so I probabaly shouldn’t say. Glad it works for you!

    #48242
    Profile photo of Chris
    Chris
    Participant

    Actually Jim the rep does recommend 870 on all plastic parts primed or raw plastic

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 22 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.