Just wondering if anyone is using this type of thing? Also wonder how it is supposed to be used properly and in what situations. I have heard some use it as a base to fill scratches before metallics to help them lay flatter. Do you spray it, and let it flash/dry, or do you spray it followed closely by the base color?

Spray it like base (medium wet) on a blend panel before you do your blend/spot in.It will help orientate the metallics/pearls as opposed to them standing up or laying in the scratches.The proper term is called a wetbed blend.You can do it either way,spray it on and wait or spray it on and go right to color.When collision painting slower reducer works better for blending and spot ins.If you are going to be doing more collison painting I would strongly suggest you take a course with the company that you are using there products.You would be surprised at how much easier it will make your job.

Thanks brother. I am supposed to be meeting with the rep this week to go over the mixing system and I will ask if they have something like that. They are a pretty big outfit so im sure they do.

what mixing system is in the shop

PPG DBU

then get dbu 500

i have been using clear basecoats for a few years now especialy for silver blends in fact for most blends as it allows for a much heavier scratch and i also find that with a full base foundation the clears lays nicer than on plain sanded factory clear with far less risk of runs sags and an uneven finish as in my experiance fresh clear doese not lay the same over old clear as it doese over newly aplied basecoat

my process is to sand out the whole panel inc the blocked repair with 400 to 600 on a DA ,lay the clear foundation coat over the whole panel but keeping within any clear blend areas, colour up the repair then add 50% base binder to the colour to fade out with ,any more than 50% and your risk issues with the pearls floating as with a contaminated clear coat ,i think we have all experianced metalics floating in clearcaot due to a poorly washed gun at some stage of the game

as i mainly do custom work i use a lot of so called intercoat clears or control binders as i prefer to call them ,their main use for me is as a candy dye carier, metalflake carrier and for other trick Tricoats ,for airbrush work i use them to extend my colour prior to thinning in order to reduce the pigment loading and mantian a decent binder to thinner ratio at the same time

once you have learned to embrace the use of a control binder such as DBC 500 you will wonder why you struggled on without them before

Paul

Yeah Ding, sorry I meant DBU500....not DBC.

Paul: So your saying I should lay the binder first, then add 50% binder to my reduced color for my next coat? And never spray any straight base?

What he is saying is after you get coverage on your repair, cut your already mixed color by 50% with the intercoat and complete your blend.

I personally find that no real advantage.....but I don't use DBC/DBU. Might be common practice..? With all akzo products I just use slow/extra slow reducer in the base and spray nice wed/med wet coats and they blend find without having to cut them down with any intercoat. If it is a tough silver, I might throw a splash or two of the "intercoat" in to the mix for the last coat.

Really have to watch how much intercoat your are using to cut your color because it could mess with your colormatch.

Would I spray the color/intercoat mix over the entire based area, then feather it out further than the base only, or just use it to go from where the last coat feather stopped and feather out further. I assume over the entire based area as well, but want to be sure.